As you can see I am getting really lazy about posting but thought this was interesting.
The World's Wildest Cities
Not all cities are created equal. Not even close. These five GLOBAL CAPITALS OF ADVENTURE combine emerging food and music scenes, fun-loving locals, and the kind of terrain that turns your world into a playground.
RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL
Sun, sand, string bikinis: South America's best city has it all.
I'm chasing away last night's caipirinha fumes, running up a steep, twisting road that sparkles in the morning sun. My target, Corcovado, the rain forestcovered mountain smack-dab in the middle of Rio de Janeiro, topped by the Christ statue. Racing up the crest, I can hear my reward, a silver waterfall that spools down the mountain. I reach it, breathless. Two women are already bathing there, wearing the tiniest of bikinis, workout clothes flung on the side of the trail.
Waiting my turn, I step to the mountain edge and look down upon the Cidade Maravilhosa -- the Marvelous City -- which sprawls out below. Facing southeast, the sinuous shoreline of Copacabana stretches out to the left; Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, a large lagoon circled by apartment buildings, sparkles in front of me; white-tipped waves crest off the sands of Leblon farther right; and the twin peaks of Dois Irmãos -- the two brothers -- jut proud, rocky shoulders into the cerulean sky.
Rio de Janeiro is geographically blessed beyond reason. It might be a city of 12 million, but it's also home to the largest urban forest in the world, some 50 miles of Caribbean-class beaches, and a clutch of granite spires. Small wonder that the locals, called Cariocas, are so fit. A fellow linguistics student named Aná Paula once told me, "The whole of the city is an outdoor gym. You can't help but be in shape -- nobody wears many clothes." She was right, of course. Corpos atleticos and bundas boas (athletic bodies and great asses) are a beachside given.
I have never been in better shape than the year I spent here in 2002 -- exploring, partying, and learning Portuguese -- or more put upon to decide my daily adventure. Many things have changed, but the host of adventure options to indulge in when I return at least twice a year have not. I always run up Corcovado on my first morning, a ritual that gets me up to speed with the pace of the city and lets me plan my adventure options, which include hang-gliding, surfing, diving, sea kayaking, kitesurfing, rappelling, hiking, sculling, mountain climbing, biking, and running -- all within the city limits.
The apartment I lived in was only a block away from the sands of Ipanema. I would wake up as early as allowed by last night's caipirinhas -- the sweet but potent cachaça-lime-sugar concoction -- and I'd either hit the path around the shore of the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, which has alfresco workout equipment with jujitsu guys doing endless pull-ups, or jog along the beach, plunging into the waves at the run's end.
Usually I'd end up at Posto 9, a spot on Ipanema where the beautiful people gather during the day to hang out, play furious games of paddleball in the surf, or engage in futevolei -- the beach volleyball game in which hands are not allowed and Pelé-style scissor kicks cinch points.
Though the rain forest of Tijuca National Park beckons with dirt roads, singletrack, and rock faces, the raison d'être for adventuring in Rio -- and the foundation on which most of the citizens base their days -- is the beach and ocean. The first week after I moved here, a local buddy of mine, Guilherme Aguiar, popped me into his armored Mitsubishi (sadly, the threat of violence is real; for fear of carjacking, it's technically legal to run red lights after midnight) and took me to a beach that became my favorite.
We drove past the scullers gliding across the lake, admired the women sporting fio dental (dental floss) bikinis in Ipanema, looked up at the hang gliders riding the thermals, zoomed by kitesurfers jumping off the waves at Barra-Meio, and ended up at Prainha -- which means "little beach." On the edge of town, Prainha is blessed with stellar, almost deserted waves with absolutely no buildings in sight. Guilherme is an expert body surfer, the most egalitarian water sport in Rio, and he introduced me to the style of sliding on my belly, one arm outstretched à la Superman, through the perfectly curling waves.
Guilherme taught me that everything about Rio is affected by the beach. If you're planning a visit, get in shape beforehand; sucking in your gut won't do. T-shirts and jeans are suitable for nighttime -- including clubs. Flip-flops and boardshorts are de rigueur during the day, and if you don't want to be pegged as a foreigner, don't bring a towel to the beach; men either sit on the sand or borrow a corner of a pretty girl's wrap.
I also learned that Brazilians are the world's most forward people. The women will think you're a massive wimp if you don't meet their eyes -- and you should never look away. The art of paquera (flirting) is thriving. They adore the brave and courageous -- adventurers are hugely regarded -- and neither shyness nor meekness wins hearts here.
After several months in the States, I get restless: I yearn for the adrenaline of Rio, the easy exuberance that Cariocas seem to employ in all that they do, the charred meats at the churrascarias, the fresh juices at beach bars, even the enduring frisson of knowing you might be jacked at the end of a highway tunnel. There is, quite simply, no other city in the world as explosively compelling as Rio. Besides, there are still many city adventures I've yet to conquer, such as climbing Pedra da Gávea, a 2,760-foot granite mountain. Nor have I jumped off nearby Pedra Bonita on a tandem hang-glide ride, which many people say is the best way to see the city, or ever tried to ascend Sugar Loaf by its 5.5 climbing route. It's all there, though. Next time. --Jason Harper
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CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA
Africa's most cosmopolitan city keeps getting better.
Having a mountain smack in the center of your city has its advantages. For one thing, great postcards. For another, hundreds of adventures. Such is the beauty of Cape Town, a 350-year-old city of about 3 million, which has always been the most liberal town in South Africa, but which has continued to evolve since the end of apartheid. African, European, and Asian cultures commingle to make it the most cosmopolitan place on the continent. Table Mountain, a 3,500-foot flattop, towers over the city and helps create the live-for-the-moment vibe, its steep sides taunting climbers, hikers, and bikers alike. You can also shark dive, canyoneer (or go kloofing, as it's known in this region), paraglide, and surf nearby. And après? Make do with locally grown wines, world-class restaurants, and model-strewn beaches. --Josh Dean
OUTFITTERS Adventure World: shark diving, deep-sea fishing, and surfing safaris (adventureworld.co.za). Abseil Africa: the abseiling and kloofing experts (abseilafrica.co.za). Downhill Adventures: biking and sandboarding excursions (downhilladventures.com).
DRINK The Chapmans Peak Hotel: Sip sundowners, snack on pan-fried calamari, and admire the view over Hout Bay (21-790-1036). Jo'Burg: Stop in at this art deco bar (21-422-0142) with an outdoor patio on Long Street, the town's most vibrant area. EAT 95 Keerom: The chef has his own fishing crew, and the seafood served in this Italian room near Long Street is what they caught that morning (21-422-0765). Mama Africa: Think game-meat churrascaria -- grilled crocodile, ostrich, and warthog (21-426-1017).
DOWNTIME Robben Island: Tour the notorious prison where Nelson Mandela was held (
www.robben-island.org.za).
STAY An African Villa, a central 12-room hotel, is the best deal in town (from $100; capetowncity.co.za/villa).
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SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA
Adrenaline has replaced start-up fever in Adventure City USA.
Thank the tech boom and bust: As tech stocks soared during the late 1990s, it seemed San Francisco's historically libertine residents were taking work as seriously as their industrious East Coast counterparts. But now the local ethos has swung back to work-to-live. The same folks who compulsively checked their rocketing pets.com stocks now check surf and weather forecasts from the city's 800 hot spots and plan their days accordingly. The city has always had it good: the sheer density of outdoor opportunities -- riding, hiking, surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, you name it -- can be overwhelming. Plus, the diverse food scene allows you to globe-trot in the culinary sense, eating your way from neighborhood to neighborhood. Hey, you need fuel for those long rides and brainstorming sessions. --Lessley Anderson
BIKING Rent a mountain bike (from $28; blazingsaddles.com) and pedal over the Golden Gate Bridge to the trails of the Marin Headlands. Road cyclists swear by the 30-mile Paradise Loop around the Tiburon Peninsula, also in Marin County (rental as above; gatetrails.com/tiburon.html).
KAYAKING City Kayak: Rent a boat and paddle into position on the right-field side of AT&T Park to catch a Barry Bonds bomb ($60; citykayak.com).
HIKING Muir Woods National Monument: Hike among some of the Bay Area's oldest redwoods (nps.gov/muwo/).
KITESURFING Learn to kitesurf in smooth-water Alameda (from $340 for two days; boardsportsschool.com), east of the city, before tackling the challenging winds off Crissy Field.
EATS Ton Kiang: the best dim sum brunch in the Richmond area (415-387-8273). Swan Oyster Depot: Slurp down local Hog Island oysters (415-673-1101). Delfina: Don't miss the Dungeness crab polpettini (like meatballs) at this Mission trattoria (415-552-4055).
DOWNTIME Exploratorium: a hands-on science museum that explains everything from tornadoes to stem cells (exploratorium.edu).
STAY Phoenix Hotel: This renovated 44-room 1950s motor lodge near the Tenderloin encircles a tropical courtyard that doubles as a nightspot (from $109; the phoenixhotel.com).
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SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA
Life's all about the beach in Oceania's urban paradise.
Getting wet is part of Sydney's culture," says Tony Morley, a surf instructor with Let's Go Surfing, on Bondi Beach. "There are so many different ways to enjoy the water." Sydneysiders -- all 4.5 million of them -- are virtually amphibious, living around a harbor whose bays, beaches, and inlets provide a waterfront that rivals Rio's. From the Opera House to the trails in Sydney Harbour National Park, the water is never far away, either physically or psychologically. The locals are refreshingly unpretentious, launching themselves into everything from cliff-jumping to surf-boat contests to beer-fueled karaoke with cheerful abandon. Morley's favorite Sydney experience is leading surfing classes under a full moon. "It's surreal," he says. "The beauty of the waves and the city blows people away." --Jeff Wise
Beaches Bondi: golden sand, consistent surf, and huge crowds (see letsgosurfing.com.au for rentals and lessons). Maroubra: seven miles to the south and gets the same waves as Bondi -- minus the throngs.
OUTFITTERS Live Adrenalin arranges kayaking and diving trips, plus speedboat and helicopter tours (adrenalin.com.au). BridgeClimb: Ascend to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge (from $123;
www.bridgeclimb.com).
EAT Sydney Cove Oyster Bar: Dine alfresco on creamy Sydney rock oysters and savor the view of the harbor (61-2-9247-2937). Swell: Pick up a "brekkie wrap" at this Bronte Beach surf cafe (61-2-9386-5001).
BARS The Rocks area is the best neighborhood for going out. Order a pint of Three Sheets copper ale at the Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel (61-2-9251-4044), then stroll to the Metro Theatre to hear the best local bands (61-2-9287-2000).
DOWNTIME The Sydney Opera House: Catch contemporary music, theater, as well as the old fat lady thing at this landmark that looks even cooler from the inside (sydneyoperahouse.com).
STAY Sebel Pier One is a bright 161-room hotel overlooking the water (from $168; 61-2-8298-9999,
www.mirvachotels.com.au).
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BARCELONA, SPAIN
Europe's most exciting city lives at a fast pace. Can you keep up?
Since its $7 billion face lift for the 1992 Olympics, Barcelona has sprung to life, known as much for its food and design flair as its spectacular location on the Mediterranean. Although proudly modern, Barcelona has managed to hold on to its Catalan identity. The cadence of this city of 1.5 million is a celebration of life outdoors, in its sunlit squares, terrace cafes, open-air markets, and, of course, on its beaches. Whether you're enjoying a midday breakfast of toast rubbed with tomato washed down with cava, hunting for the most innovative tapas, or grooving at the all-night clubs, Barcelona's eat-drink-dance-repeat cycle somehow feels manageable. After all, the locals keep this pace year-round. --Corin Tanner
BEACHES Barceloneta: Sunbathe or jog on this in-town beach. Sitges: Ride 30 minutes south for bigger waves, cleaner water, and fewer people. Rent boards at Big Kahuna (34-93-894-0210).
OUTFITTERS Bike Tours Barcelona: Ride through the historic neighborhoods and past Gaudi's most haunting buildings (biketoursbarcelona.com). Barcelona Mountain Bike: half-day or weekend rides on nearby singletrack (barcelonamountainbike.com).
EAT & DRINK Bar Pinotxo: Don't miss the grilled razor clams at this tapas shrine in the Boqueria market (34-93-317-17-31). Commerç 24: Try the crusty prawns with romesco or tuna sashimi pizza at this standout in the Born area (34-93-319-2102). La Vinya del Senyor: Sip a Catalan white or Penedès at this outdoor cafe also in the Born (34-93-310-33-79). La Paloma: Barcelona's best DJs spin house and funk at this club in the Raval (34-93-301-68-97).
DOWNTIME Barcelona has Europe's top soccer team. Join 90,000 fans to watch the city's Brazilian star, Ronaldinho, and his teammates play the beautiful game (
www.fcbarcelona.com).
STAY Hotel Omm is a sleek 59-room hotel in the Eixample. The futuristic design and the low lighting make you feel as if you've stepped into a surrealist spaceship (from $250;
www.hotelomm.es).
Photograph by: Joao Canziani
(May 2006)
Copyright ©2006 by Men's Journal LLC
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